Blackford Hill and Braid Hills

Crawford Macnab

14 December 2023

Being so close to Christmas it was inevitable that there would be some call offs but with late joiners, it was still ten walkers - Jo, Sarah, Moira C, Crawford, Mike, Lesley, Pamela H, Alistair, Isobel and Andrew, that met at the Royal Observatory car park on Blackford Hill.

This is a serious dog walking area so we were well represented by Megg and Cosmo!

We started with a slight detour over to the shoulder of Blackford Hill to take in the excellent view of Edinburgh, the Castle, and Arthurs Seat. It was a bit of a surprise to find out that quite a few of the group had never been on Blackford Hill before. Others in the group like myself will have been at the top of Blackford Hill hundreds of times!

With the preview over we started the walk proper by descending down in to the glen via the community wood. At this point Sarah and Cosmo left us to it and headed off to a prior appointment. Crossing the Braidburn for the first time we climbed up part of the Howe Dean path before turning right onto the old Hermitage golf course.

We passed a small pond that normally has very little if any water in it, but this time with recent rain it was fuller than anyone could recall. (the Google Maps satellite view above must have been from drier times)

Continuing along the old golf course we could look over to the rocks that are frequented by climbers. During the summer the area is often the location for all night raves and can be quite an eye opener for those out for an early morning walk the day after!

We continued gently upward to reach the Lang Linn path and exit onto Braid Hills Drive. Safely across the road we followed what was the forerunner to Braid Hills Drive. This old road cut through the golf courses on Braid Hills a few hundred yards south of the present road. Jo explained some of the history of the old road and pointed out its route and the location of the skating pond with its island.

I managed to find an old photo that showed the narrow road with dry-stane dykes on each side. Apparently the small loch was drained in the mid 1920s when the new road was created. It looks very different today but you could imagine the flat area being filled with water.

The photograph also shows the former Winchester’s Refreshment Rooms at the top right. Our walk continued past these rooms though only part of a stone wall remains. (The Winchesters apparently were resident there when it was still a farmhouse, and again when one of the family was a starter on the course. Later, when Stan Smith’s family took the tenancy in the 1930s, the house still had no gas, electricity or running water. ‘Granny’ Smith dispensed lemonade and biscuits to the golfers from the open kitchen window!)

Thankfully our walk made good use of the rights of way that ensured we safely avoided being struck by any golf balls.

On the way to the top of the Braid Hills a Christmas tree with tinsel called out for a group photo.

Benches at the top of Braid Hills provided a comfortable stop for water and quick snacks. With the temperature dropping a bit we descended down off the top to exit on to Braid Hills Approach road. A very short distance along this road we reached the Braid Hills Golf Clubhouse and turned left on to the Braid Hills Trail. Another historical photograph shows the very same clubhouse with a lot less gorse and bushes on the golf course. Blackford Hill, Salisbury Crags and Arthurs Seat beyond.

At this point we met Sarah and Cosmo, who returned to join the walk. A gentle descent on a slightly muddy path led us once again to cross Braid Hills Drive. This time the road was busier to cross and one particular stupid driver failed to show any consideration, clearly exceeding the 40mph limit. Suffice to say we were not impressed!

From here we dropped down to the bottom of the glen and had lunch on the benches in front of the Hermitage of Braid mansion.

My reference book tells me it was built in 1785 for Charles Gordon of Cluny. The design, probably by Robert Burns, in a romantically defensive style, has mock machicolations, battlements and even pointed, dummy bartizans on the corners.

Next to the benches was an ornately decorated sundial that had us guessing how to interpret the graphs and tables of data that gave information relative to GMT. The research left for another day!

After lunch we climbed out of the glen past the lovely walled garden in front of the large lectern-style dovecot.

With Blackford Hill now in view we crossed Midmar Paddock and followed the balcony path to gently gain height around the side of the hill. The lead group took a more direct route to the top with the rest taking the more sensible ridge option.

Group photo at the summit of Blackford Hill.

As we approached the car park, the group took a slight detour for a final group photo at the Ken Fallas bench.

Thanks to Jo and Richard Doake for organising this walk. Unfortunately Richard had a bad cough and could not join the walk on the day. Instead of going back to Jo and Richards house for hot drinks, most of the group headed to Liberton Brae for hot drinks, mince pies and Panettone.

Thanks,
Crawford.